"Kanchenjunga is one of the world's most massive and spectacular mountains, and still a virgin peak". - First Over Everest.

"Kanchenjunga is the very queen of mountains. The view of it from Darjeeling is the finest in the world. No other can compete with it" - Everest the Challenge.

To a spectator from the Observatory Hill who runs the eye over the great Snowy Range that in a magnificient cirque borders the horizon from east to west, Kanchenjunga appears to be mighty upheaval of snow and ice from the interlinking system of the main Himalayan Range. The phenomenon is , however, an illusion. The dazzling whiteness of snows coupled with distance mars the perspective effect of comparative proximity and remoteness.

Godwin Austin, named K2 by the Survey Department of India, is its only rival claiming to be the second highest peak in the world. Whether K2 or Kanchenjunga stands second to Everest in height, the loftiest peak in the world, is not yet definitely settled, as would appear from the following figures.

Figures recognised by the Survey of India
• 1st Mount Everest - 29,002'
• 2nd Godwin Austin - 28,250'
• 3rd Kanchenjunga - 28,156'

Figures according to Col. Burrard's calculation
• 1st Mount Everest - 29,141'
• 2nd Kanchenjunga - 28,225'
• 3rd Godwin Austin - 28,191'

What ever may be the actual heights of the two peaks,Godwin Austin and Kanchenjunga, lets not get into it. Kanchenjunga is engirdled by three territories: Sikkim in the south and east, Nepal in the west, and Tibet in the north. Kanchenjunga is not a calm and serene mountain as it appears to be when viewed from Darjeeling. Both ice and rock avalanches of incredible dimensions frequently thunder as they roll down precipitous slopes of this mighty massif. Last but not the least is wind of hurricane force, one of the deadliest of Kanchenjunga's weapons which plays a havoc with any intruder who ventures "to walk the heights of gods."



Five summits adorn this Monarch. The name is derived from the Tibetan words, 'Kanchen' and 'Dzonga' meaning 'Five Treasuries of the Great Snow'. While the highest summit is 28,156 feet, the Second highest peak is 27,820 feet, thus falling short of the former by 336 feet only. Four colossal ridges of inconceivable dimensions of rocks, ice, and snow abut upon this massif, which culminates in a peak 28,156 feet high. These ridges are named according to their repective directions with reference to the great centrepiece to which they are attached.

There is absolutely no direct route to any of these summits, which are accessible, if at all, by first ascending any of these ridges, and then, say, reaching some ice terraces suitable for camping, and lastly attempting the summit. The final climbing to the rock pyramid may ascent of a vertical height ranging from 1,000 to 1,500 feet is extremely trying, as at that tremendous altitude every step upward is devitalizing to an incredible extent.

From the east, Kanchenjunga is assailable through the gates of Sikkim via Lachen and the Zemu Glacier. Here two mighty ridges, the East Ridge and the North Ridge, seem to stand prepared to dispute an assault. From the west this Monarch is climbable by having recourse to the North-western Ridge. The route to reach these ridges is roundabout and is the lengthiest. It is glacier that requires traversing at the foot of the massif is establishing the lower camps is known as the Kanchenjunga Glacier. To attack the Western Ridge an extra traverse on the Ramthang Glacier is needed.

Lastly, comes the south-western face of the mountain, so distinctly visible from Darjeeling. This seems to offer an access from the Talung saddle, after the head of the Yalung Glacier is ascended. This last route is through the state of Sikkim, necessitating, however, a brief march along the skirts of Nepal.

Photo © Saom T. Namchu, Himali Travel Specialists