"The lure of the Himalayas is spreading now all over India among our young people, and that is a sign and symbol of the new life and the new spirit that is coursing through India's veins" - Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru (Founder President HMI)

Tenzing Norgay's ascent of Everest (8848 m/29,028 ft) along with Edmund Hillary, in 1953 provided the impetus to mountaineering as an organised sport in India, and it was to commemorate this singular success that the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute (HMI) was founded in Darjeeling with the personal initiative of Late Pandit Jawahar Lal Nehru, the first Prime Minister of India. The Institute was established on 4th November 1954, which was then the hub center of all mountaineering activity in India. Late Maj N.D. Jayal was the first Principal of the Institute whereas Late Tenzing Norgay was Director of Field Training. The Institute is located at an altitude of 6800 feet above sea level.

In 1954, the Institute was started at Roy Villa on Lebong Cart Road. It was shifted to present location on the western spur of Birch Hill (Jawahar Parbat) in 1957. The Institute is the landmark in Darjeeling and an important center of tourist attraction. It commands a magnificient view of Kanchenjunga massif. The Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research was approached to prepare a scheme for the HMI and Arnold Glatthard, Principal of Swiss Mountaineering School, Rosenlaui, visited Darjeeling for this purpose and made the necessary recommendations.

The Institute is an autonomous body. It is governed by an Executive Council which is headed by the Hon'ble Defence Minister as the President. The Hon'ble Chief Minister of the State of West Bengal is the Vice President of the Institute. The council has eminent mountaineers as its members. The representatives of Govt. of Nepal and Govt. of Bhutan are also members of the Council.

The Institute is headed by the Principal. It has three main wings :
a) Training Wing
B) Museum
c) Administrative Wing

The Training Wing is headed by the Vice Principal and it has an Advisor of Field Training, one Deputy Director of Field Training and other instructional staff. The medical officer is also a part of the training team.

The Museum Wing has two museums - Mountaineering and Everest Museum. There is provision to screen films on mountaineering and related sports for trainees of various courses.

The Administrative Wing has various sections viz. - Administration, Equipment, Hostel, Record and Accounts.

Aim of the Institute:
The object of the Institute as contained in Memorandum of Association is as under :
"The object of the institute will be to encourage and promote the science and art of mountaineering among -
a) Its members, including honorary, associate and life members, and
b) such outsiders as may be expecially enrolled as students by the Executive Council for the purpose, for a specified term or terms, in order that the enterprising members of the community may take a healthy interest in the development of mountaineering activities in the Himalayan and Karakoram Range as a sport or as scientific pursuit."

Tenzing photo provided by Mr. Jamling Tenzing
Photo © Jamling Tenzing